Friday, June 20, 2008

SWIMMING WITH SHARKS / MAY 18,2008 =D

We woke up early Sunday morning in preparation for the ride out. By 5:00 a.m., everyone was trying to sneak in their bathroom rituals in order to make it in time for the 6:00 a.m. breakfast. Yes. We needed a full hour because all five of us had to stay in one room. Upon check-in the previous day, we found out that the room assigned to Sister Pusjing and fam had a defective aircon. We told the innkeeper that we have decided to just bunk in one room; we found out that each room actually has two larger-than-double-but-not-quite-queen-sized beds. We also found out that cash was running low (long story, haha) and that if there were no TVs in Donsol, asa pa kami that they will take credit cards! Hahaha! ‘D

We stayed at the Donsol Woodlands Resort. Very basic, but all we needed really was an airconditioned room and a clean bathroom. For P1,700 a night, it was also practically a steal. Not only did we have two big beds, we had a relatively big room (maybe 30 sqm) plus an honest-to-goodness veranda with the usual bamboo resort sala set. There was therefore no need to feel cramped.

We had wanted to get out by 6:30 a.m. Our guide arrived well before that. Unfortunately, the resort kitchen seemed to have only one cook and one stove so our breakfast orders were literally coming out one at a time! Hahaha. Naku! ‘D It was way past 7:00 a.m. by the time we managed to get a move on.


As with the previous day, we took a tricycle ride to the dock. Not too far this time. Everything has also been paid for at the tourism office the day before so there was really nothing left to do but ride the banca and pray for luck. P3,495 per boat plus P300 per person for the equipment. It would be a shame if we did not see any.

The seas were very rough. As I said in previous posts, I am NO water-baby so while I had my life vest on, I was also holding on to the boat and the Hubby for dear life. The Hanging Habagat apparently does more than just drive fireflies away. It brings on GIGANTIC waves. This was a literal, real-life ocean park roller-coaster ride. Hahaha! Ack!

Thankfully, the banca was made of stern stuff and our boatmen were experienced enough to keep the boat from toppling over. Hubby Sweet also reassured me that the chance of us toppling over is slim because the katig (the bamboo extensions) are there to stabilize the boat. Still, it was an experience riding the crest of a wave only to “crash” big time as soon as the crest gave way to the valley of the wave. Susko! “Father will kill us,” Sister Pusjing and I thought, remembering his text message earlier during the trip. Having watched from the news that there was a storm approaching Bicol, he told us NOT to take unnecessary risks. WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!
We laughed out loud to ease the tension, thinking that if something happened to us, they would be calling Father and he would probably have only one thing to say, “Mga pinutukan ng lintik na mga anak at manugang ko! Di bale. Kalimutan na sila...Ang gusto ko lang malaman, OK ba si Patita?” HAHAHAHAHA!!! ‘D

Now back to the business of whaleshark watching.....=)

We asked the guide how far we would have to head out to see the butandings. It really depends, they said. On a good day, you don’t have to go too far to encounter them. On bad days, you can go an entire day without seeing any. There are no promises, no guarantees. They cannot, after all, force the whalesharks to show up.

Uh, oh….. =(

Some gambled on going out the previous day despite the slim possibilities, they told us. They had no choice because they were going to go back to Manila that afternoon. They came back to shore not having seen any. Sayang ang P3,495! =( Some Europeans insisted on heading out too, but unlike the regular tourists, they brought along their diving gear. They were luckier, but only because they decided to dive.

“Paano niyo alam kung saan sila hahanapin, Kuya?” we asked, wondering how in this vast ocean they could manage to find these whalesharks.

“Papalaot ka. Nandyan lang naman sila. Makikita mo yung dorsal fins nila,” our guide replied.

“Parang pating? May dorsal fin?”

“Oo, makikita nyo….”

All of a sudden there was pandemonium. As our guide was explaining how to spot a whale shark, the two other boat men stood up excitedly and started shouting simultaneously (screaming actually) in the local dialect. They were excitedly pointing at something, the entire time blubbering continuously in a language we could not understand.

We all turned around in the direction they were pointing to and saw two dorsal fins sticking out from the water. Not one. TWO. The pandemonium continued with our guide and the boatmen shouting instructions back and forth in Bicolano.

“Get ready!” our guide barked, “Pag sinabi kong talon, talon!”

The boatmen shouted something to him in Bicolano.

Our guide hesitated for a moment before he advised, “Malakas daw ang hatak ng dagat. Hanggang dalawa lang muna ang sumama sa akin…”

We all tried to gear up as fast as we could, but by the time the boatmen excitedly shouted out, “Ngayon na, ngayon na!” only G-Genius and I were ready to jump. G-Genius jumped with nary a thought. I hesitated. The gigantic waves were still rolling in. I did not want to jump without the Hubby beside me. Ack! Scaredy cat. =(
And so it goes that only G-Genius got to swim with the first set of whalesharks. The rest of us just watched from the boat in awe as these gentle giants started swimming toward our banca, their dorsal fins sticking out in the air. Both passed under our boat, and I remember thinking, don’t flip us. Don’t flip us! Ack! AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!! Hahaha! We saw a mother butanding and her baby. =) Things were looking up. We had been out to sea no more than 15 minutes at that time and we had already encountered two. YAHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!! ‘D
(Note: The underwater pics of the whale sharks are not mine. I lifted them off the Albay Tourism website because I wanted pics to match my experience, but I obviously did not have a high-tech enough camera. Click here to access the site. =))

As we relived the first experience as soon as G-Genius and our guide got back, I remembered stories I had heard about swimming with the butandings. Kris, one of my dearest friends, once told me that he hesitated to jump because of the sheer size of the creature. It was much bigger than a bus! Their guide reassured him by saying, “Di po kayo makakain ng butanding. Kasinlaki lang ng piso ang lalamunan niya. Di kayo kasya.” To which Kris replied, ”Oo nga, Manong. Pero ayaw ko naman maging chewing gum niya!” HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!

At that moment, I understood exactly just how Kris felt right before he jumped. Haha! ‘D

G-Genius couldn’t contain his excitement. I found myself praying that we would get to see at least one more. Despite the terror building up inside me, I WANT TO JUMP IN!

“Sa susunod, lahat na tayo tatalon. Hawak lang kayo dito,” our guide told us as he held up a buoy. I suppose after testing the waters on the first jump, he has confirmed that he can handle having all of us jump in at the same time.

Soon after, the boatmen started jumping up and down again! From a distance, we could see a dorsal fin sticking out. One whaleshark stood there. They stopped the boat from a distance. I suppose they did not want to disturb it nor scare it away. We would have to swim to get nearer, even as it headed toward us. We all jumped into the rough seas and swam as best we could toward the butanding.

“Look down! Look down!” our guide instructed, “NOW!!!”

There was no time to think. I looked down.

May I say that it was the first time ever in my entire life that I was stupid enough to literally SCREAM UNDER WATER! AAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!! Hahaha! 'D

I had looked down at the precise moment the head of the whale shark was passing by, its mouth FULLY OPEN as it fed itself with the plankton in its path. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH!!!! Imagine, if you could, a fish head that’s bigger than a bus WITH AN OPEN MOUTH. You’d scream too if it were you. HAHAHA! Ayaw ko din maging chewing gum ng butanding ‘no! Hahaha!

I had to come up not only to sputter the sea water out, but to gasp for air. The whale shark is a sight that will literally take your breath away. The entire time my head was above water, I struggled to put my snorkeling mask back on as fast as I could. I did want to miss out on anything.

By the time I looked back down, I realized that the whaleshark was now swimming slightly below us. Stupid me, I SCREAMED AGAIN. Hahaha! This time, I panicked at the thought of its tail hitting me. I could see it swinging from left to right. Granted, it seemed like it was in “slow motion”, but slow-mo or not, its tail was still a pretty big paddle to be hit with. ACK! I, all of a sudden, realized why we had to stay 3-4 meters away from the butanding! While I suppose that was the intention, the rough seas had pushed us nearer to the whale sharks than we intended. Ack!

I managed to move away in time, but the tip of the tail managed to lightly graze Patita’s leg. At that, the whale shark dove deeper. It’s true what they say. Despite their size, they are very shy creatures after all.

As the butanding swam away, I can’t help but stare in awe at the way it gently moved. There was apparently peace under the turbulent seas. It was brought about by the sight of a whale shark quietly slicing through water, oblivious to everything else below, beside and above it. I also watched with curiosity as it slowly moved away with a posse of mini-fish (well, mini-only in reference to the butanding, haha) swimming right below it. Those were full-grown janitor fish, our guide, explained as soon as we got back on the boat. They swim under the butanding because they know there will always be food in its path. Oh………..=)

With the butanding gone, I looked up to check for the Hubby only to find him dolphin-kicking away, trying to chase the whale shark! In rough seas! ACK! He kept up with it for a while, but it soon outpaced him. Although the whale sharks move relatively slowly, their sheer size automatically puts them at an advantage over smaller swimmers. Hay!

I struggled to get back to the boat. The seas were getting rougher, and by the time I got back, my energy had been all but spent. Still, all of us couldn’t stop grinning and shouting as soon as we climbed back up. The huge smile and twinkle in everyone’s eyes, especially Patita’s, were priceless. =)

We saw one more whaleshark after that, our sightings spaced out no more than 15 minutes away from each other. We were extremely lucky. With the seas getting rougher, however, we decided to head back. Us adults figured it would not only be the wise thing to do, it would also give all of us enough time to rest and take a shower before we head to the airport.

We found out as soon as we got back just how lucky we were. Only two boats were allowed to go out that day. Ours was one of them; we managed to do so only because we headed out before 8:00 a.m. No one else was allowed to head out after because the waves were getting too big and the sea was becoming too rough. That’s when we realized that the fact that we got out, saw four whale sharks and got back safely really ought to be attributed to more than just luck.

Quite fittingly, let’s attribute it to Divine intervention # 4, shall we? =)

****************************************************************************

All in all, Donsol is worth going to, but for future travelers, I really suggest you go early. February to April would really be best. May used to be considered still a good month to go, but I suppose the unpredictability of the weather has changed all that. It is possible for the showers to come in early, and you don’t really want to travel that far and spend that much to see….uh…nothing. =)

We stayed at Donsol Woodlands. Call 0921-9699544 or 0920-8630191 for reservations. If the line is busy or out of coverage area, just keep on trying. The signal in Donsol is erratic. It may take a bit of patience, but you will eventually get through.

Click on the Albay Tourism website for more details and tips about whale shark watching in Donsol. =)

LAST: In a gesture of supreme gratitude that it did not eat me, I have since resolved to stop eating sharks fin soup and sharks fin siomai. I'm lobbying that you do too. =)

Sya! Happy weekend, everyone! =D

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

eileen, grabe the best noh?!?! wala pang nakaka-match sa wildlife experience ko na yan ever. butandings are just spectacular.

question: yung shark's fin siomai ba sa henlin meron ba talagang real shark body parts, hehe? kala ko kasi "simulated" lang yung sa henln kasi ang mura. kumain kasi ako nung umuwi ako dyan 2months ago haha. sorry!!! never again!

Anonymous said...

Congratulations, cous! I was waiting to finally find out and am so happy you had four sightings! Amazing, wasn't it?

Without competition --- the butanding is the biggest thing I have ever seen move so gracefully. And it puts things into perspective to be so small and swimming alongside them :)

Anonymous said...

i thought the del monte marketing team all went to see these butandings a few years ago.. anyway, it's great that you had a successful sighting/swimming experience.

TOYANG & TWEETY said...

LEE!!! The best! Haha! WOOOOOOHOOOOOO!!!

Di ko alam, dear, kung may totoong shark body parts yung sa Henlin o para lang siyang mga "fish ball" na lasang fish lang pero wala naman talagang isda kahit katiting. Haha. Still, from now on, we MUST stay away from anything that has any "shark" in its name. Deal? =D

TOYANG & TWEETY said...

Trish! I agree!!! Can't wait for you guys to go back to Donsol when Gabby is bigger. Haha! My goodness, ano kaya ang gagawin ng anak mo sa mga butanding?! Hahaha. =D

TOYANG & TWEETY said...

Si Martha, si Carol and si Leah lang yun, BJ with Tatong and a few of the other sales guys. 'Was supposed to go with them but di ako nakasama. (Long story, haha!) In any case, yes, I'm glad I FINALLY got to swim with the whale sharks! Yahoo! You should try it. Maybe when Juan is bigger. Then again, di ka pa ba nakakapunta sa Donsol?