Sometime last week, Hubby Sweet posted "What did your grandmother cook for you?" as his Facebook shout-out. It was a quote from Chef Alice Waters who may have been mentioned in the article he was reading about organic food.
In the comments bar, I posted, "Champorado, tocino, fried chicken and egg...every single day. And never, NEVER, akong nagsawa. =)"
His shout-out brought me back to simpler times, back to when my siblings, my cousins and I were between 5 and 7 years old. Back to the time when our parents were still working--when they used to drop us off at Daddy Iston and Noni's for the day. Noni was our maternal grandmother (my favorite grandmother actually, as I was her favorite grandchild. Walang kokontra. ;p.).
There was no cable TV back then. We had five channels: GMA7, BBC2, RPN9, IBC13, NBN4. Cartoons were only aired every Saturday morning. Sesame Street was aired once in the morning and replayed in the afternoon. In the time in between airings (yes, we also watched the replays, haha), we kids had to find something else to entertain ourselves with. Usually, we'd be running around, playing "football" with a cheap plastic ball in the front yard. Sometimes, we'd be playing house. Then, there'd be those times when the weather was just too sticky-hot--when Daddy Iston would either bring out the garden hose to spray us kids with, or when Noni thought it better to just let us "swim". HAHAHA. They had no pool; my grandparents weren't rich. When they asked us if we wanted to go swimming, it actually meant that several basisn (although the term "batya" seems more apt, haha) will soon be brought out (one for each apo). Me, I was special. While everyone else got to sit around in their "batya of choice" (haha), I got to sit in a mini-drum that had me submerged in water up to my neck, never mind that the bottom was probably thick with "lumot". I remember us regularly wasting half a day away just sitting there in our underwear. =)
The other half of that memory is precious. See, back in those days, Noni cooked food not in the proper kitchen inside. She did it in the makeshift kitchen outside. The gas range inside the house was used only for reheating food (pretty much how we use the microwave these days). The real cooking was done outside on a makeshift stove made out of stone, fueled by logs (pugon) and dried twigs.
The laundry area were we sat around until we turned into human prunes was next to Noni's makeshift kitchen. Every day we'd watch her carry plates of ingredients out through the back screen door. She would set them on the table, before turning around to try and get a fire going. She'd pick the logs carefully. They would have to be dry enough for them to catch fire. Then she'd arrange them on the "stove", careful to leave space for air in between each piece of wood. Then she'd crumple several pieces of old newspaper and insert them through the pieces of wood. Then she'd light a match and ceremoniously hold it long enough on each of the pieces of newspaper, waiting for each to catch fire and ignite the logs. Pretty soon, she'd get a good fire going. I remember the smoke. Goodness, the smoke! It would've been an environmentalist's nightmare, but those were simpler times when burning wood ovens were not necessarily a bad thing. If any, they made for better tasting food.
And so we'd sit around soaking while Noni cooked several dishes in quick succession, taking advantage of the going fire. When Hubby Sweet posted his shout-out, I said "Champorado, Fried Chicken, Fried Egg, Tocino" because I was pretty sure those were our daily staples. Daily staples that we never seemed to get tired of.
Then cousin Zaldy posted, "My lola's EMBOTIDO...YUMMY!!!" and I found myself nodding, "Ah, yes! Noni's embotido! Sweet, salty, smoky, simple yet rich. Sausage, carrots, green peas...." I found myself reminiscing and mentally agreeing.
Then, apparently not quite done, cousin Zaldy followed it up with another comment, "And my lola's HOME MADE HAMONADO!!! =)", and I found myself smiling and thinking, "Ah, yes! Noni's homemade hamonado." I remember the leg of some pig sitting in a ceramic basin as Noni cured it with a mixture that I never got to ask her about. Then she'd "bake" it in a big wok (the elders called it talyasi) in the makeshift stove outside. My favorite part was when it was already cooked, properly browned in some parts, a thick layer of fat glistening on the edge. Then, she would sprinkle brown sugar all over it, covering the fat as she waited for the steel spatula she set on the burning fire to heat up until it glowed red-hot. Ceremoniously, she would pick up the steel spatula, telling us kids who were watching her eagerly, to stay a good distance away. In a graceful move, she would sear the glowing steel spatula onto the brown sugar and just the mere memory of the sizzling sound and of the sweet smell that followed as the brown sugar caramelized into the fat still makes my mouth water to this day. "Ah, yes," I thought, smiling as I reminisced, "Noni's homemade hamonado."
Then Sister Pusjing joined the trail and posted, "Si-cream with langka! :-) Macaroni Soup! And, Harming, anong tawag dun sa pang-special occasion food na talya-talyasi lutuin ni Noni? May hotdog, chickpeas....", and I remember thinking, "Si-cream with Langka! And Macaroni Soup! How could I forget?!". Si-Cream is Noni's play on the word Ice Cream. Back in those days, Magnolia was only served if someone was celebrating his birthday. During ordinary days, us kids would have to content ourselves with either the 5- centavo ice candy that is being sold by our next-door neighbor or with ice shavings that Noni gets by rubbing a bowl against the side of the freezer (hahaha!). This was before the advent of no-defrost refrigerators. Then she'd take the bowl of ice, heap strips of fresh langka over it, before dousing it with a good portion of Alaska Evaporated Milk and a teaspoon of white sugar for good measure. One can call it Langka Con Hielo, I suppose. We called it Si-cream. Haha. It was simple, but heavenly. ^_^
Oh, and yes. Noni's Macaroni Soup. Shell-shaped pasta swimming in milky chicken soup. Nothing complicated, and yet it was everything that Chicken Macaroni Soup ought to be.
Sister Pusjing's post was followed by a few more comments and "likes" about how Noni was the best cook ever, about how they missed her, about how they missed her cooking.
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Hubby Sweet and I ate in a restaurant once. I had read about it in some article prior, and found the concept endearing.